Camino Primitivo: Walking and Becoming

A personal account of one journey—and its inner trail

In April 2024, I hiked 320 km along the entire length of the Camino Primitivo, starting in Oviedo. One of Spain’s seven major pilgrimage routes to Santiago de Compostela, the Primitivo is considered the most challenging but scenic. It winds through the spectacular Cantabrian mountains, offering magnificent views and a rugged, unforgettable experience.

A Path with Ancient Roots

The Camino Primitivo, also known as the Original Way, is the oldest pilgrimage route to Santiago. King Alfonso II of Asturias was the first pilgrim who sought to witness the remains of the Apostle St. James, believed to be held in Santiago de Compostela.

For centuries, the Camino Primitivo was one of the most important Christian pilgrimage routes. In the Middle Ages, pilgrims walked it as penance, seeking forgiveness and salvation. Today, while many still undertake the journey for spiritual reasons, others walk it for personal challenge, healing, and introspection. It has become a retreat from the distractions of modern life—a place to reset, reflect, and reconnect.

Why I Walked the Camino—Again

A year earlier, in 2023, I walked the 260-kilometer Portuguese Coastal Route from Porto. That journey introduced me to the emotional and physical demands of long-distance walking and gifted me with ocean views, charming towns, and a shared sense of purpose with fellow pilgrims.

This time, I walked for two main reasons:

A drive to explore – a lifelong passion for adventure, nature, and wide-open spaces that has taken me around the world.

Clarity – I needed time away from routine and noise to process significant emotional changes, reflect on my priorities, and contemplate my future direction.

The Camino Primitivo offered the perfect setting: timeless, natural, and inward-facing.

Prepare for the Journey: What You Need to Know

Pilgrim’s Passport

Before starting, get your Pilgrim’s Passport. Collect at least two daily stamps along the way. These credentials will be required to receive your Compostela diploma at the end.

Essential Gear

Two items will define your comfort and endurance:

Backpack: I used a 40L pack from Osprey. It fit snugly, offered excellent weight distribution, and allowed freedom of movement.

Hiking Shoes: Invest in high-quality, waterproof boots and break them in beforehand. A good pair of sandals is also essential—they give your feet a rest after each stage.

Other tips:

Bring only what’s necessary and learn how to pack efficiently to reduce weight.

Most albergues and hostels have laundry facilities, so you won’t need to overpack clothes.

Water and Remote Sections

A 2.5-liter water bladder is ideal. You can refill at many points, but there’s one particularly remote mountain stretch where resources are scarce. Here, stock up on extra water, food, and essentials.

Physical Preparation

Train your legs and knees, as they’ll carry you the entire way. Strong joints and muscles will help you avoid injuries and make the journey smoother.

A key tip often overlooked: master your breathing.

Breathing is more than just taking in oxygen—it impacts how well you focus, your endurance, and your overall energy. I suggest breathing exclusively through your nose, maintaining a slightly longer exhalation, especially when going uphill. It helps slow your breathing, makes oxygen use more efficient, and keeps your mind calm and steady.

Practicing this kind of nose breathing in your daily workouts can make a huge difference. This technique improved my stamina, focus, and recovery during my Camino.

The Start: Oviedo and the Northern Coast

The Camino Primitivo begins in Oviedo, a city full of vibrant culture, elegant architecture, and inspiring art. Since it’s not far from the coast, I spent time at Playa del Silencio, one of Spain’s most spectacular beaches, defined by dramatic cliffs, pebbled shores, and surreal rock formations.

It was the perfect place to begin this long, soul-searching journey.

The Route-Ahead: Choosing Your Path

Once you reach Borres, you’ll face a decision:

-Take Los Hospitales route—the more adventurous, scenic, and demanding trail across remote mountains.

-Or go via Pola de Allende, a lower-altitude option that’s less isolated.

Both routes reconnect at Puerto del Palo, the highest point on the Camino Primitivo.

In the following sections, I’ll share stage-by-stage insights, hidden gems, and the final 91 km trek from Santiago to Finisterre—a symbolic end to my pilgrimage.

Stages:

- Oviedo to Grado
Distance: 27.5 km
This stage begins at the cathedral in Oviedo and passes through charming rural villages with moderate climbs. 

- Grado to Salas
Distance: 22.2 km
A scenic route with rolling hills and the opportunity to enjoy the lush Asturian countryside.

- Salas to Tineo
Distance: 19.5 km
This stage has a steady ascent and offers stunning views as you climb toward Tineo, an important pilgrim stop.

- Tineo to Pola de Allande
Distance: 28.2 km
A challenging stage with steep climbs and descents, passing through peaceful forests and small hamlets.

- The optional way would be from Tineo to Borres: 14.9 km. You’ll overnight in Borres, then take the Hospitales Route through the mountains, 26 km to Barducelo, or 28 km to La Mesa.

- La Mesa to Grandas de Salime
Distance: 15.2 km
A shorter stage, but with a steep descent toward the water reservoir of Grandas de Salime.

- Grandas de Salime to A Fonsagrada (Galicia)
Distance: 27.7 km
Enter Galicia, crossing mountainous terrain and passing through villages steeped in rich cultural heritage.

- A Fonsagrada to O Cádavo. Distance: 24.3 km
A stage full of natural beauty featuring several ascents and descents along the way. 

O Cádavo to Lugo Distance: 31.0 km This is a long yet less rugged stage leading to Lugo, which is famous for its well-preserved Roman walls. 

- Lugo to San Román da Retorta
Distance: 19.7 km
A pleasant and relatively flat walk through the Galician countryside.

- San Román da Retorta to Melide
Distance: 28.1 km. This stage connects with the Camino Francés in Melide, a popular spot for enjoying the famous Galician dish Pulpo a la Gallega (octopus). 

- Melide to Arzúa
Distance: 14.4 km
A shorter, easier walk shared with pilgrims from the Camino Francés. 

- Arzúa to O Pedrouzo
Distance: 19.3 km
A gentle stage through eucalyptus forests, nearing Santiago. 

- O Pedrouzo to Santiago de Compostela
Distance: 19.4 km. The final stage culminates at the magnificent cathedral in Santiago de Compostela.

GETTING STARTED: Oviedo to Tineo

On the first steps of my long journey, I left behind the majestic Cathedral of Oviedo, where King Alfonso II began his journey twelve hundred years earlier. I headed toward the city’s western side and up the hilly landscape surrounding the valley where Oviedo sits. It wasn’t long before I reached the open countryside with grazing cows, lush green vegetation, and quaint stone farmhouses dotting the landscape. 

The air was fresh, carrying the faint scent of wildflowers and damp earth, and the gentle sounds of birdsong and distant cowbells replaced the city’s bustle. As I walked, rolling hills stretched before me, a reminder of the many ascends and descents ahead. It was a peaceful yet exhilarating start to the Camino Primitivo. I felt connected to history and nature by following the ancient path westward.

The path was a mixture of terrains, shifting from asphalted roads to gravel trails, winding across farmlands, small towns, and open fields, until Grado. I arrived at the first Albergue with good stamina and in pretty early hours, so I had time to explore Grado and relax.

After consuming a rustic breakfast the following morning, I resumed my walk on the Camino. The trail abruptly awakened my sore muscles as it ascended a mountainous trail that led me deeper into a forested area and a more secluded part of the region.

The natural surroundings were vibrant, with lush greenery throughout the landscape, from the curvy plains to the tall, distant mountains covered in thick woods. I thought I had chosen the ideal season since Mother Nature in the Galicia countryside was in a complete renaissance in the second half of April.

The birds sang in full chorus, and although I am not an expert in identifying different bird calls, I attempted to distinguish the various sounds. It was a fun pastime that distracted me from my thoughts while simultaneously sparking new ones. It spurred ideas and realizations that mostly accompanied my steps until the flowing play of light and shadow over the hills drew my attention, returning me to the present moment.

I’ve always kept my camera close for when natural phenomena like this one might occur. Nature’s fickleness has forever been my muse as a photographer. It is a powerful source of inspiration, lifting my spirits, fueling my creativity, and deepening my connection to the world around me.

Entering Salas, with its narrow cobblestone streets and weathered buildings, I walked beside the steady flow of a river. I followed the path across the medieval town to a charming house only a few steps from the river edge, surrounded by green meadows and high, lush mountain surroundings. Casa Sueño is located right in front of the Camino trail. It means that, after a well-deserved night’s sleep and a hearty breakfast, you won’t have to struggle to find the path again, picking up right where you left off the previous day.

The path climbs through a large forest and crosses an ancient Roman bridge. After a few meters, a sign invites you to visit a small waterfall called Nonaya Waterfall. Here, you can relax while listening to the sound of the water and benefit from nature’s relaxing, soul-nurturing calm. You may also notice some offerings left by pilgrims, such as shells, stones embedded in tree trunks, necklaces, and anthropomorphic figures. I left a small polished red stone found at Playa del Silencio.

A zigzagged dirt road leads to the top of a mountain, traversed by an impressive, tall, modern bridge. Here, you can hear large vehicles roaring above your head. It isn’t a pleasing experience, so I suggest turning up your earplugs’ music volume and focusing on the path and the surrounding nature. You’ll soon be back to grand vistas and more uplifting panoramas.

Approaching Tineo, you’ll soak in the character of this town. As you descend its winding streets, sweeping views of green valleys and distant hills gradually unfold. Tineo is a lovely town. Its central square is lined with buildings dating from the 12th to the 16th century. It serves as a meeting place and a popular social center. I booked a night at the Hotel del Palacio de Mera, a mansion built in 1525 that stands as one of the finest examples of 16th-century palatial civil architecture in Asturias, which also houses a museum of antiquities. I was pleasantly surprised by such regality at a surprisingly affordable price.

Tineo to Lugo

If you stay an extra night, Tineo is a pleasant place to linger. Its cozy cafés, inviting restaurants, and views of the surrounding hills offer an uplifting atmosphere to regenerate and recharge. Still, the Camino calls, and from this point forward, it begins to challenge both body and spirit. What lies ahead is some of the most rewarding treks of the entire pilgrimage.

 If a day feels particularly demanding, consider using a backpack transfer service. For 5 euros, your luggage will be sent to your next stop, leaving you free to carry only the essentials. Many pilgrims use this option, and I did once as well. However, I mostly enjoyed the effort of holding my pack, since it became part of the journey itself. 

Sometimes the landscapes appeared as the scene described in fantasy books: green valleys, scattered villages, and open hills that stretch far into the distance. On one such ascent, a Griffon Vulture appeared overhead. The large bird’s slow, whirling circles filled me with awe—and a touch of unease—yet something in its freedom felt contagious, even encouraging. 

The 14-kilometer walk to Borres is a good warm-up for what comes next. Many pilgrims choose to rest here before tackling the legendary Hospitales Route.  

Others still opt for the alternative route to Pola de Allande, which I’ve heard is a beautiful walk. Even so, the Hospitales Route had taken root in my mind so firmly that I knew without a doubt it was the path I wanted to follow.

Before going to sleep, I packed extra food and water, knowing a long day lay ahead. I spent a restless night at the albergue in Borres, and by the time I was ready to leave, I was desperate for a strong cup of black coffee. Unfortunately, the town’s only café was still closed, so I had to settle for a much-needed cup from a vending machine. I set off into a quiet, misty morning. Fog clung thickly to the air, the path beneath my feet damp but easy to follow. Before long, I reached the fork where the trail splits and turned toward the Hospitales Route. As I began to climb, the fog started to lift, slowly unraveling. Then, all at once, it cleared, revealing a breathtaking expanse of deep green hills—silent, untouched.

I passed an old fence, then a quiet hamlet with a church and barns sealed with thick chains. The trail took me through a charred patch of forest, evidence of a recent fire, then opened again as the sun broke through. The sky turned a brilliant blue, and I could see back to the valley I had crossed. A long, white cloud hung just above it, with snow-covered peaks in the distance.
The climb continued through open pastureland. At the top, I passed grazing cows and a relaxed group of horses resting near pine trees. When I stopped for lunch, a curious horse wandered over and kept nudging toward my food. Just beyond the ridge, the ruins of a medieval hospital came into view. Weathered stone outlines of an old settlement cling to the hillside, softened by centuries of wind and time. I followed the trail through open grasslands along the mountain’s natural contours. The landscape unfolded in sweeping views, shaped by shifting sunlight and shadow playing across the hills.

Eventually, I reached Puerto del Palo, the highest point on the Hospitales Route at 1,146 meters. From there, the trail plunged into a seven-kilometer descent toward the Salime Reservoir. It was a balance test for the knees and proved how well I had packed my backpack. It was a humbling reminder that the Camino rewards both preparation and perseverance. The path continued through quiet towns and farmlands—Berducedo, La Mesa, Grandas de Salime, A Fonsagrada, and O Cádavo. These villages, rooted in agriculture, offer just enough comfort for pilgrims. The atmosphere becomes distinctly rural, with businesses focused on walkers and their needs. 

Crossing into Galicia, the landscape changes once again. I was awestruck by the massive, well-preserved Roman walls that still encircle the city. Lugo felt like one of those rare places where the past lives beneath the surface—pulsing through its streets, plazas, and homes, seamlessly woven into everyday life. It’s a vibrant, orderly, and thriving city, and after the effort it took to reach it, being there felt like stepping into something both unforgettable and timeless.

Lugo to Santiago de Compostela

There are approximately 100 kilometers left to Santiago de Compostela. Suppose the previous 309 kilometers left you with enough energy. In that case, I recommend walking the two-kilometer route along the Roman wall encircling Lugo’s historical center. You’ll be amazed by the perspective, atmosphere, and incredible feeling that walking on such an ancient structure can bring. It is a unique chance to fully absorb UNESCO World Heritage sites. It offers a peaceful, contemplative moment to reflect on your journey, physically and inwardly.

As I left the city, the distant sound of bell towers echoed through the narrow medieval alleys of Lugo’s center, marking 7:00 a.m. The smell of freshly ground coffee drifted in the air, drawing me toward one of the many cafés around Plaza Mayor—a vibrant square filled with architecture, statues, shops, restaurants, and local life.

Reinvigorated, I passed the towering Lugo Cathedral, impressed by its scale and rich façade. It felt like a fitting farewell. I crossed the ancient Roman gate of Porta Miña, followed the original Camino Primitivo route over the Roman bridge spanning the Miño River, and began the slow ascent up the other side. My senses slowly reconnected with the journey—it felt wondrous.

Ahead of me, small groups, couples, and solo travelers moved at their own rhythms. Some wore badges, while others carried the white scallop shell marked with the red cross of Santiago. Some used walking poles; others walked freely. A few moved determinedly, while others appeared more contemplative, savoring each step.

The route unfolded in a mix of asphalt roads, dirt tracks, and shaded woodland paths. The terrain was gentler than the earlier mountain stretches, though a few climbs still posed a challenge. Even so, the surroundings and occasional sweeping views offered a calm and quiet reward.

Approaching Melide, the Camino Primitivo merges with the more popular Camino Francés. The town bursts with activity—pilgrims fill cafés, shops, and churches, and the sudden bustle can be overwhelming.

To escape the crowds, I recommend booking a table at one of Melide’s restaurants serving Pulpo à Feira, a Galician specialty. Pulpería A Garnacha and Casa Alongo are excellent choices. You could also socialize with fellow pilgrims, sharing stories and laughter over drinks, or seek a quiet spot to stretch, breathe, and reflect. Take in the challenges you’ve faced, the views you’ve admired, and the distance you’ve come. It’s all part of the inner journey to understand yourself more deeply.

As you walk the ancient trails of the Camino Primitivo, you begin to understand something profound. There is an understated power in carrying all your belongings using only your own two legs. As you traverse mountain paths, valleys, cities, and tranquil villages, the rhythm of walking at your own pace evolves beyond mere movement, discomfort, joy, or desire—it becomes imbued with meaning. In time, you’ll realize that walking the Camino is not just about traversing beautiful landscapes; it’s also an inward journey. What you discover along the way is a unique kind of clarity that will stay with you long after your journey ends.

I was lucky with the dry weather until the final 20 kilometers. As I neared Santiago, heavy rain poured, drenching me completely.

Santiago welcomes every pilgrim with warmth and celebration. Once you reach the vast plaza before the Cathedral, strong emotions might rise—perhaps laughter, tears, or both. Scream, dance, kneel, or kiss the ground if necessary. Let the feeling through. It’s a mark of your strength, resilience, and courage.

Collecting stamps in your Pilgrim’s Passport is more than a ritual—it’s a record of your effort and achievement, a keepsake worth preserving as a reminder of all this journey has meant to you.

Your official diploma will await you at the Pilgrim’s Office at Rua Carretas No. 33, just a short walk from the Cathedral.

The Camino taught me lessons I could never have learned without embracing discomfort and hardship. It revealed the value of simplicity—I discovered that I could live with very little, stripping away the illusion that I needed more than what truly matters. I came to appreciate solitude, realizing I was enough for myself during moments of loneliness. At the same time, I recognized the importance of companionship and the joy of connecting with others. Most importantly, I understood the necessity of creating space for self-actualization because I want to strive to become what I can be. This is a lesson that I’d like to share with anyone willing to discover their true purpose.