A Hidden Gem Marks the Start of the Portuguese Camino

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It’s 4:00 am, and my flight departs at 6:45 am. 

What a familiar feeling. 

Traveling has become a common experience for everyone these days, and we all feel that excitement before setting off to explore a new destination on our amazing planet. As the great Italian writer and poet Cesare Pavese wrote, “Traveling is a brutality. It forces you to trust strangers and lose sight of the familiar comforts of home and friends. You are constantly off balance. Nothing is yours except the essential things - air, sleep, dreams, the sea, the sky - all things tending towards the eternal or what we imagine it to be.” Sometimes, we seek to embrace this vulnerability and experience it firsthand.

I felt particularly thrilled about my upcoming destination.

Since meeting my partner and even after welcoming our first and only child, we’ve been inseparable adventurers, traveling extensively across the globe and nurturing our shared love for travel. 

But this time, I’m embarking on a solo adventure.

My destination is Porto, Portugal, where I’ll begin my transformative pilgrimage journey to Santiago de Compostela, Spain. This 280-km trek will undoubtedly change the course of my life.

Finally, I have the opportunity, even if just for one day, to explore the captivating Portuguese city of Porto. I’ve heard countless tales from fellow travelers and friends about how truly unique this place is. Now, I have the opportunity to explore its wonders myself.

My first stop is Porto Cathedral, also known as Sé. It is a historical landmark that has witnessed various architectural styles throughout the centuries, from its original Romanesque design to the influences of Gothic, Baroque, and Neoclassical styles. This blend of architectural influences reflects the city’s rich history. The cathedral’s expansive terrace provides a breathtaking view of the city. It’s here that I’ll obtain my pilgrim passport. In this document, I will gather stamps from every albergue, hostel, or hotel I stay in during my pilgrimage and eventually earn the diploma for completing this long journey.

As I wander through the medieval part of town, I’m enchanted by its well-preserved charm. The narrow cobblestone streets, a testament to the town’s rich history, invite me to stroll. The echoes of the bustling promenade edging the Douro River, lined with vendors and lively restaurants, transport me to Porto’s glorious past as one of Europe’s most important harbors. It’s a joy to be part of this living history.

One of the most magnificent sights awaits in the Jardins dos Palácio de Crystal. As the sun begins to set, casting long shades and silhouettes, it paints a breathtaking scene of Ponte da Arrábida and the distant Atlantic Ocean. The gardens offer grassy terraces where people gather to enjoy the stunning view and for other events and festivities. It’s a testament to how Porto surprises and delights at every turn.

A few kilometers west of the gardens lies another fascinating spot that attracts people like ants to sugar—the Jardim do Morro. Perched on the hillside of Serra do Pilar, opposite Porto’s historic center, it offers awe-inspiring panoramic views of the Douro River and the city skyline. This garden holds historical significance as part of Porto’s defense system during various historical conflicts. Today, its elevated location and unobstructed vistas make it the perfect place to witness mesmerizing sunsets over the river. Therefore, travelers and tourists come to Jardim do Morro in the evening to capture the magical hues of the setting sun.

To reach this prominent garden, one has to cross the iconic Luís I Bridge. Designed by Théophile Seyrig, a disciple of Gustav Eiffel (the renowned engineer behind the Eiffel Tower), this bridge began construction in 1881 and was completed in 1886. Back then, it boasted the longest iron arch span in the world, measuring 172 meters. The bridge consists of two decks—one for the metro line (Line D), pedestrians on the upper deck, and another for road traffic below. The upper deck treats you to stunning panoramic views of the Douro River and the city of Porto, connecting it with Vila Nova de Gaia. It serves as a vital transportation link between these two neighboring cities.

By this time, I felt delighted and suddenly fired up by all the surprising spots I had experienced. One of the places that I cherished the most was the central station, known as São Bento Station, which can be found in the heart of Porto’s historic center. The train station was built on the grounds of the former Benedictine São Bento Monastery, dating back to the 16th century. The construction started in 1900 and ended in 1916.

Within the station’s architecture, you can still catch glimpses of the original monastery, including a Gothic chapel. The station showcases a unique blend of Fine Art Style (Beaux-Arts), combining French classicism and Portuguese decorative arts elements. Its ornate façades, intricate azulejo tilework, and grand entrance hall create a truly captivating atmosphere.

One of the highlights of São Bento Train Station is its magnificent azulejo tile panels adorning the interior. These stunning blue and white ceramic tiles portray historic scenes, landscapes, and cultural moments from Portuguese history. The mastermind behind these remarkable artworks is the renowned Portuguese artist Jorge Colaço. He spent more than ten years carefully designing these complex tiles with great attention to detail.

Colaço’s artistic expertise extended beyond the train station. He also designed numerous decorative tile panels, showcasing his talent for creating compelling patterns, floral motifs, and geometric designs. These beautiful panels adorned public and private spaces throughout Portugal, leaving an indelible mark on the country’s artistic heritage.

After a long day of exploring this fascinating and entertaining city, it was time to prepare for the longest walk I had ever done: El Camino Portuguese—The Coastal Route.